Two Kittens are Easier than One

We like our kittens to go in pairs.
Congratulations on your decision to adopt a kitty cat! Choosing the right companion is a big step, but is lots of fun and the results are very rewarding. We have found that kitten adoptions have a much higher success rate when they are adopted as pairs or into a home that already has another young kitty. If you have decided to adopt a kitten, consider getting two. This can actually be less work for you, because the kittens will expend much of their youthful energy and aggression on each other. The companionship will make for more well-adjusted pets.

Two kittens are easier to care for. Here are 10 reasons to adopt a pair.

1. - Fewer behavior problems with two kittens. Cats that have a playmate tend to be more socially well-adjusted and avoid behavior problems like shyness, biting, hissing, being frightened and hiding in the company of people they don't know.
2. - One kitten can become lonely. If you work long hours or travel for a weekend, two cats keep each other company and are more tranquil during your absence.
3. - Peace of mind for you. You can rest easy at work or on vacation knowing your cats have each other’s company.
4. - Two kittens will self-train. Kittens learn by copying. If one kitten is quick to learn appropriate litter box use, the other will be likely to copy. They also help each other with grooming; wash-up after meals soon becomes a ritual with 2 kittens.
5. - They help each other burn off energy. A pair of kittens will entertain each other in the wee hours of the night, allowing you a full night’s rest. No one can play with a kitten like another kitten can!
6. - Two cats stay healthy together. As they get older, cats are less likely to gain weight due to lack of movement when they have a companion to play with. They will remain more playful and youthful in later years with a companion.
7. - The workload to care for two cats remains relatively the same.
8. - Having two kittens provides endless hours of fun.
9. - They will each have a friend for life.
10. - You are saving two lives instead of one.

What if I have an older cat?
Of course it depends on the established cat's personality, but in our experience, we find that many adult cats' patience can run thin when a kitten wants to play! Though it might sound contrary, an older, established cat will probably accept two kittens better than one. One kitten will seek out the older cat as a playmate, or worse, tease and pester the senior cat which can cause stress to an older cat. The kitten in return, will be "rewarded" for his playful efforts with hisses and swats. Two kittens will expend their energy in play with each other, leaving their older "uncle" to relax in peace.

What if I can only afford one cat?
Vet bills are probably the main difference in expenses between having 1 cat versus 2. If you can only afford one cat, we have many young adult cats that would do fine in a single-cat home. We also have cats that would be happier in a home where they don't have to share! Ask our staff and volunteers to introduce you to them when you visit.

OK, I’m ready to adopt! Now what?
The next step is to fill out the adoption application on our website. All applications will be reviewed by the refuge staff. The refuge will contact the interested party to set up a home visit. Only after a member of the refuge has visited the applicant's home will they consider continuing with the adoption process. Once a home is considered safe for our cats, the applicant pays an adoption fee of $100 per cat. This fee covers the spaying/ neutering, testing and all vaccinations that ensure the cat lives a healthy and happy life with their new owner.

Cat-Proofing Your Home

Cats are curious by nature, and they love to climb and jump on top of high places. While your new cat is getting used to her surroundings, she will be doing a lot of investigating and exploring. You need to make sure your home is safe and secure, and basically go through your home as if you were bringing home a toddler.

Follow these guidelines to make your home safe for your kitty:

1. Check all windows and screens to make sure they are very strong. Cats can push weak or torn screens out from the frame or tear them. Cats can escape even from second or third story (or higher!) windows and may injure themselves in the process. It is best to install new steel screens, or place metal grilles such as the ones available for screen doors over windows you wish to keep open. If in doubt, place pieces of wood in the window runner to stop it from opening more than an inch or so. Cats are stronger than you think!

2. If you have a balcony, make sure the cat cannot access it unless it is fully enclosed. Cats often try to leap onto railings after a bird and may fall. Balconies are not safe places for cats.

3. Remove plants that may be poisonous. Cats love to chew plants, and some cats may use potted plants as a litter box, so try to hang all plants out of reach or move them outside. If you are not sure if your plants are poisonous to cats, ask your vet. Common plants that are poisonous include philodendrons, ferns, all lilies, and poinsettias.

4. Lock up all cleaning supplies, drain openers, and other poisonous substances. Place them in a sealable plastic container with a latched lid. Make sure antifreeze is not accessible and do not allow your cat in your garage where leaked fluids can poison her. Animals are attracted to the sweet taste of antifreeze and other toxic substances.

5. Check for pest poisons and remove them. Rat poison, ant and roach poison, and rodent traps are all dangerous to cats. If you rent your home or recently moved in, do a thorough check for existing poisons because sometimes they are left behind by previous tenants. Check the back of all cupboards, drawers, closets, etc. Cats can become sick or die from eating the poison or from eating mice or insects that have ingested the poison.

6. Put away breakable items, especially on bookshelves and countertops where cats may investigate.

7. Remove dangling cords such as the strings from blinds and phone cords, or wrap them up and securely tie them out of reach. Cats can’t resist playing with these items and can become entangled and hang or choke. Tie up cords from blinds near the top of the window, and secure loose power cords and cables with ties out of reach or behind furniture. Some kittens and cats may also chew electrical cords and could be electrocuted – make sure your cords are tucked away or encase them in plastic cord-keeper tubes.

8. Pick up any small, swallowable items and strings. Rubber bands, paper clips, string, thumb tacks, broken balloons, tree tinsel and other small articles are tempting play objects for cats, but pose a choking hazard. String can cut the intestines if swallowed.

Important: if your cat ever swallows string, NEVER pull the string out from either end – you can cause internal damage. Call your vet immediately, and if the string is very long, cut the string near the cat.

9. Set aside a "safe room" for your new arrival. Put her food dish, water, and litter box, toys, scratching post and bed in it. Give this room a thorough going over. Once kitty is comfortable in her new surroundings, it will be time to let her explore the rest of your happily cat-proofed home.

Your new kitty needs a calm introduction

People adopt a cat and then, excited about making it be part of the household, immediately let it loose into the house the minute they get home. The second it's out of the carrier, the poor thing is confronted by screaming, grabbing kids and snarling, hissing animals. What a welcome!

Your home is now their home too, and they need to be comfortable in it.

A Calm Introduction

The type of introduction to a new home described above is a frightening experience for a cat. It was probably taken from a familiar place of security, or possibly even a mother if it's just a kitten, and is now being bombarded with change. Both travel and change are not comfortable things for cats. Traumatized, the cat might scratch, bite, and possibly not eat or use the kitty litter. Unfortunately, a frequent outcome is that the new owner decides the cat is not a "good fit," and so returns it to the shelter. The poor kitty never had a chance.

Properly introducing a new cat to your home will pave the way for a rewarding and long-lasting relationship. It's important to remember, however, that a proper introduction to your home and family requires time and patience.

The trip home

The kitty's trip home is exciting for you, but a frightening ordeal for the cat. Things will go smoother if you...

• Use a cat carrier or closed box with holes to take your new kitty home.

• Never let the cat wander freely in the car. This is an invitation to an
accident for either you or the cat.

• Avoid loud, blaring music and fingers poking in at the new cat.

At home

It's important to NOT set the cat free into the household as soon as you get home. A new cat may need up to two weeks to transition into a new home, especially if there are other animals. Have a small room ready for a temporary isolation area. A spare bathroom works well, since the cat will feel more comfortable, at first, in a small space. Also, there's nowhere to hide in the bathroom and the cat will get frequent visits. In addition, the tile on the floor will make clean-ups easier. An office or spare bedroom can work, too.

• Have the isolated space ready with a clean litter box, a bed, water and toys before the kitty comes home.

• If possible, bring the bed and toys from its previous home for scents that are familiar.

• Don't provide food for at least an hour so kitty can become comfortable with the room.

• At home, open the cat carrier in the isolation room and let the cat venture out on its own when ready. It may take a little time. The cat will be less frightened if it hasn't been dragged out of the carrier.

• Give the cat a few minutes to explore the room and then show it the kitty litter.

• Leave the room and give the cat time alone to become familiar with the new surroundings.

• Return after about an hour with food and some friendly cuddles.

Importance of the isolation period

The isolation period makes the transition easier and more gentle when you adopt a cat. The kitty isn't overwhelmed by a new environment, noises, smells and other animals. The isolation period also gives you time to check if the new cat is healthy. It's common for a cat to be frightened and not eat or drink the first couple of days in a new home. If this persists, however, the cat is the danger of dehydration and kidney failure and will need medical attention, so keep a close watch on its physical state. Use this isolation time to...

• Take note if the cat is eating, drinking, and eliminating in the kitty litter.

• Look the cat over for signs of health problems.

• Let the cat become familiar with the scents of other animals in the house.

• Let the kids come in to meet the cat one at a time.

• Grooming and acceptance of food are signs that your new cat is settling in and may be ready to meet other pets in the household. These introductions should be slow and supervised. See other articles under "Adoption Resources" about introducing your pets to each other.

Shopping List

Things to buy before you bring your new kitty home

A microchip tag will be provided by the Goathouse Refuge when you pick up your cat. We will also give you a small bag of GHR food and litter that you can use to transition to your own brands. You will need to purchase the rest of these items if you don’t already have them.

Food. We recommend a high quality food such as Science Diet or Chicken Soup for Cats. Avoid by-products, artificial colors, and preservatives. Feeding a more expensive food is cheaper in the long run; high quality food is made with good meat and is more digestible so less will be wasted in the litter box (another advantage – less stool!). Your cat will be healthier and less prone to disease and will shed less hair. It is better to measure (see manufacturer's instructions) than to free feed. GHR kitties are fed twice a day (breakfast and dinner) and we recommend keeping your kitty on that schedule.

Litter box & Litter Scoop. The bigger the box the better! Cats like room to turn around and dig. Higher sides will help avoid spills. Covered boxes should be large enough for the cat to turn around in and stand up straight. One litter box per cat plus one extra. Clean the box(es) daily.

Litter. You will get a bag of the litter used at the GHR. We use custom cattle feed. It has no smell and no dust. We also recommend either clumping (World’s Best Cat Litter, Swheat Scoop, Dr Elesey's Precious Cat Ultra), or non-clumping (any plain non-scented litter like Johnny Cat). Avoid clay clumping litter (Scoop Away, Tidy Cat, etc.) and silica bead litters, as they may be toxic if ingested. Never use scented litter or pine litter since many cats are repelled by the smell.

Dishes. Use some from your kitchen or get special ones for your cat, just make sure they are wide and shallow enough for your cat’s face. Ceramic or stainless steel is recommended because plastic dishes harbour bacteria which can cause feline acne on the chin.

Scratching posts. It is best to provide your cat with a large cat tree or post, and make sure you have at least one or more flat cardboard scratching boxes available too. You want to start good habits from the beginning. Cats like to scratch things right away in a new home because they mark territory that way – so provide a suitable outlet for this urge. Have them in the rooms the cat will be in the most.

Cat Carrier. We recommend the sturdy solid plastic type. Even if you're adopting a kitten, get one big enough for an adult cat to stand and turn around in comfortably.

Toys. Simple cat-approved toys include ping pong balls, stuffed catnip mice, and laser pointers. Interactive toys such as magic wands or cat charmers are great but should not be left with the cat, as they will destroy the toy or possibly choke on it. No items smaller than a ping pong ball or toys with feathers should be allowed because they are a choking hazard.

Brush. Grooming your cat not only reduces shedding and makes her look great, it is a great way to bond. Start with a soft-bristled brush. Later try a slicker or rubber curry brush, but some cats are ticklish and object to certain types of brushes.

Bed. (Optional): An old pillow may be chosen by the cat, but many cats adore nest-type beds sold in pet stores. Others will ignore any bed you provide and choose the sofa or your bed.